In every paper, Wednesday is food section day. The Post Dispatch featured German food this morning and the story did nothing to change my feeling about that kind of food. I can't bear it.
The featured chef sharing German recipes was Kevin Willmann from Farmhaus restaurant and he made me more afraid then ever to sit down to a meal like this.
First was the appetizer: "Rich beer-braised onions finished with whiskey-topped with homemade leberwurst (liver sausage) served on a specially concocted multigrained bread." Concocted is the word alright.
Then Rabbit Stew, hasenpfeffer, which Willmann elevated with juniper flavor and plated with roasted root vegetables and a bay leaf. He also served it in a venison jus as a nod to the lore that German immigrants in rural America used a readily catchable meat — squirrel — when they couldn’t get rabbit.
Are you with me so far?
Then schweinebraten which Willmann based on the more elaborate style of Italian porchetta, rolled and slow-roasted in a moisture-controlled oven called a CVap, with the traditional dumpling accompaniment, spaetzle, accented with rye flour and caraway seed for a complex flavor.
The final course: schweinshaxe — smoked “hock,” or knuckle — Peter Brady-ized with roasted apples and served with a mild house-cured sauerkraut. Oh my gosh!
The evening concluded with plum strudel served with a generous portion of sweetened quark meant to represent a fresh cheese that might have been made in an immigrant’s home kitchen.
Have no idea what quark is, but I just wouldn't be able to try it, much less see all that meat with all the other ingredients and you know why I am never enthused about a trip to Germany.